The reason why I would never use Luca's PawPaw on my clients or myself

Written by Make-up artist Wanda Waller, our beauty columnist

I don’t know any other Australian product that has more of a cult following than the famous red tubed Luca’s PawPaw ointment. Unfortunately at the end of the day it is basically a repackaged, more expensive version of Vaseline.  Luca’s PawPaw contains more petroleum jelly than an actual pawpaw. Funnily enough it's clearly stated on the front of the tube - “contains fermented papaw 39 mg/g”, there is 1000 mg in a gram, which means it is 96% petroleum jelly and 4% pawpaw.  Petroleum jelly (petrolatum, mineral oil, liquid paraffin or paraffin oil) is a by-product of the oil industry, coming from crude oil that has been refined and heavily processed. It is the cheapest way to make a moisturizer that feels amazing on the skin but is actually not that good for you. Petroleum jelly creates a physical barrier against the skin, meaning moisture can’t get in or out. It only reduces moisture loss which is why it feels like it is moisturizing. It can clog the pores, slowing the skins’ ability to eliminate toxins.  There are several all- natural alternatives out there that don’t contain any petroleum:
1. Brauer Paw Paw Ointment  
2. Suvana Organic Paw Paw & Honey Balm
3. Natural Alternative Paw Paw Ointment

What happens when you get a facial?

by Jordanna Hicban-Moss

I love facials. I also fall asleep during facials. Every time. I don’t know what it is but apparently someone patting my face means nap time. I’ll run through the steps of a basic facial, and what you should experience during the treatment. Believe me there is a huge difference between a good facial and a bad facial. You should be in a quiet, dark room with no loud interruptions or outside noise.

1. You’ll be put on the bed for the first cleanse and you should be starting to answer some key questions like what products are you currently using, what is your skincare routine, what are your main concerns/reasons for visiting. It’s best to wear a singlet where you can pop the straps down and it’s a good idea to take off your bra (if you wear one) because if I lie down wearing a bra I feel like someone is sitting on my ribs. The first cleanse is to remove makeup (Please don’t wear makeup to get a facial) and then there is usually a skin consultation. Sometimes a therapist will look at your skin under a magnifying lamp, or even a UV lamp. A good therapist will be able to to determine your skin type by a few key guidelines, like size of pores, pattern of congestion, texture, tone, hydration levels. If you’ve already been to this therapist they will obviously know your skin type bar any major life changes. If you’re mainly there for relaxation and maybe some extra hydration, then the consultation won’t need to be quite so detailed. The therapist then will generally choose the products specifically suited to your skin.

The best sunscreens for sensitive skin

by Wanda Waller

Unfortunately SPF in foundations or powder products is not enough to effectively protect your skin from permanent sun damage. That's why we need to treat SPF like a primer and apply it before makeup.
Make sure that you apply it on daily basis and it is a broad spectrum SPF, which means it offers protection from both UVA and UVB rays.
UVB is the chief culprit behind sunburn, while UVA rays, which penetrate the skin more deeply, are associated with wrinkling, leathering, sagging, and other light-induced effects of aging ("photoaging")
I recommend using SPF of 15 or 30 for winter/autumn and 40 or higher for summer/spring(depending on where you live and work).
The only two brands of sunscreen that I fully trust and recommend are:
Paula's Choice Australia and MooGoo Skin Care - both reasonably priced, cruelty free and they never made me break out.
For my clients, who will be outside for longer than an hour I apply Hourglass Cosmetics Veil Mineral Primer SPF 15, before any makeup, it doesn't flash back or give you a "ghost" face as the quality of their ingredients is very high!

Wanda regularly writes skincare and beauty reviews for give a shit about fashion. Read more here

Jordanna Hicban- Moss, Make-up Artist

Jordanna Hicban-Moss is a woman with many talents: she is a qualified make-up artist and beautician, writes a beauty blog, studies dermal therapy and has some really cute pets you should check out on her instagram.

 1.What was the decision making process for your degree like? 

After doing my makeup qualification in 2008 and moving to Melbourne, I realised I wanted to work  with skin as well as brows, spa treatments and so on. So I did my Diploma of Beauty Therapy which has a large theory component. The theory got me interested in science again, after dropping it as a subject all the way back in year 10, and since the Diploma funnels directly into the Bachelor of Health Science in Dermal Therapy, I decided to continue on with my studies. I love learning too, especially since it's essentially a degree in the science of skin.

2.Which other career paths did you consider and what was your dream job as a child?

I was a dancer growing up so I always thought I would be a professional dancer, but injuries and burn out happened. I was dancing seven days a week by the time I finished high school and I just couldn't sustain it. However I always ended up doing everyone else's makeup during this time for all our performances, and I was also trying to copy different looks I saw in magazines, video clips and movies. Dance and makeup has always gone hand in hand for me I guess. 

3. What is your advice to make up artists starting to build their portfolio?

Really look at a photographers work before you decide to shoot with them. As well as your models. For beauty shots especially you’ll need a model with fantastic skin. It's worth it to pay for quality talent. Before you do any crazy avant-garde stuff make sure you can nail beautiful, simple natural looks because that's what agencies and potential clients look for. Also get the sentence "they can just fix it in photoshop" out of your head. You want it to look immaculate in person let alone on camera!

Skincare Tip of the Day

by Wanda Waller

My new favourite duo for my combination skin that's prone to cystic acne, blackheads and scarring are the Kate Somerville Skincare Daily Detox Cleanser and Sunday Riley Luna Night Oil. If you are both dry and oily like me you can use Luna every second or third day and use a good, alcohol and sulfate free moisturiser in between. Even though I was scared to use Luna on myself -I had some bad experience with retinol before- I'm glad I did, as it is very gentle. You can start by using it once or twice a week to get your skin used to it and after few weeks/months use it every second night. Also make sure to use a good, natural SPF (like moogooskincare)during the day -yes, even during the winter!- if you are using any type of acid, aha, bha or retinol.

Review: Clarisonic Skin Care System PLUS

To me beauty means being clean. Clean teeth, clean skin, fresh hair, tidy nails. Even people that don't care about beauty products or make-up at all are instantly more appealing when they just keep themselves tidy looking. I've been trying to achieve this look for a while- it started with buying an electric toothbrush, applying nail-polish at least twice a week and getting a really effective anti-darndruff shampoo. The latest addition is my Clarisonic Cleaning Brush. I had read about it on so many forums and read a lot of reviews. I ended up buying one off my friend, who works as a make-up artist and just knows everything about skincare. Because I knew that she took good care of it, and I got some brand new brush heads as well, I felt comfortable buying a second hand item. The Clarisonic Skin Care System PLUS has different speeds and you can set it for either 1 or 2 minutes, while the Clarisonic Mia2 Cleansing Systems are smaller and only have one setting. My colleague owns the Mia2 and loves it- so buying the more expensive version is not necessary to get the same results.  I would recommend using the delicate or sensitive brush for starters. 

Reasons to buy the Clarisonic Cleansing System:

- easy use- works in the shower and is 100% waterproof

- charge lasts for over 2 weeks

- skin looks and feels cleaner and softer

- pores seem smaller after one week of use already

- moisturiser soaks in quicker 

- still cheaper than getting a facial every month in the long run

6 questions: Amy Kenny, Make-Up Artist

Since when have you been working as a makeup artist and hairstylist? I started working in retail cosmetics in 1999. I worked my way up to counter manager, and I occasionally freelanced on the side. I have been focusing just on my freelancing for approximately 4 years.

When did you know that this career was for you? I have wanted to do makeup since I was a teenager. I always loved doing my friends' makeup. I'd try to steer them away from their blue eyeliner and encourage them to use more neutral colours. I was torn at the end of high school between going to university, or studying makeup, as I had imagined myself working as a makeup artist. But I studied Environmental Science at University as I was good at maths and science, but I left when my desire to do makeup became too strong.

Where does your inspiration come from? I am often inspired by fashion-clothing colours, textures and styles. But I am also inspired by makeup itself. The colour of a product can set of a whole idea for a look or a shoot. I've had one nail polish give me inspiration for a few totally different shoots! But for my bridal and corporate makeup work, I am inspired by the face of my client, and what will work to enhance their features.

Describe your own beauty/skincare routine - I have very dry skin, so I use Jurlique Replenishing Cleansing Lotion, then Jurlique Rosewater mist or MAC Fix+ spritzed on to the skin. Then I use Trilogy Rosehip Oil Antioxidant+, and I moisturise with Jurlique Moisture Replenishing Cream. I exfoliate only once every fortnight, and use Hydra Intense masque from Lancome as often as I feel I need to. I cleanse with Clarisonic a few times a week for a deeper cleanse, it leaves my skin feeling really soft and radiant. My lips get dry if I don't look after them. I am loving La Roche-Posay Ceralip and Mecca's new Lip De-Luscious Overnight Lip Conditioner.

What is your favourite feature about yourself and can you recommend any products to enhance one's natural beauty? I am obsessed with brows and I am lucky mine grew back after some over plucking when I was younger. They look pretty good now, although I do tint them and pencil them in to enhance them.
I think natural beauty comes from within, if you are a happy and kind person, it shows on the outside. Although a bit of blush and mascara helps too!

List your top 3 make up and/or beauty products-
1. Lancome Hypnose mascara in Noir (I don't leave the house without it).

2. Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturiser

3. Mecca Lip De-Luscious Overnight Lip Conditioner or Trilogy Rosehip Oil Antioxidant+ (It's too hard to choose)

Is there a piece of advice you'd like to give any up-and coming makeup artists? Assist someone who's work you admire. I didn't know about assisting when I first started, and I think I would have had a lot more confidence those first few years had I assisted another artist.

Have a look at Amy's portfolio here and follow her instagram account @amykennymakeup 

I'm looking to feature creatives more regularly on this blog, so if you work in the fashion industry, feel free to drop me a message here